In my quest to find a young Bordeaux that was both affordable and approachable (as opposed to so many over-tannic monsters), I focused my efforts on the Saint-Emilion region. While the left bank appellations of Margaux, Paulliac, Medoc and Haut Medoc are justifiably famous for their big, luscious Cabernet Sauvignons, these are wines that require generous aging. In Saint-Emillion, however, the preferred blend is high percentage of Merlot with Cabernet Franc; these are wines that can be aged – or enjoyed immediately.

I became intrigued with Chateau La Bienfaisance after learning of their long-time association with Stephane Derenoncourt (a highly respected consulting winemaker). I first met with representatives from the Duval-Fluery family, co-owners of the property and soon, I arranged to meet with their cellarmaster, Didier Peytour. I spent hours at Chateau La Bienfaisance, walking the vineyards, learning the topography and tasting through many vintages.

Chateau La Bienfaisance (Bienfaisance means charity) was founded in 1925 and is located in Saint-Christophe des Bardes, one of nine villages in the Saint-Emilion Appellation. The Duval-Fleury and Corneau families bought the property in 1991 and immediately began to make improvements, such as renovating the 12th century farm building that is now used as a cellar, buying modern wine making equipment and rehabilitating the vineyards.

Since 1998, Derenoncourt has worked with La Bienfaisance’s resident winemaker Dider Peytour. With each passing year, they have collaborated to learn more about each individual parcel and to adapt techniques to maximize the quality of fruit each parcel produces. Originally from Northern France, Derenoncourt never studied oenology at one of the elite schools. The advantage of not hailing from the Bordeaux winemaking establishment is that he has felt free to experiment and innovate. For example, he was the first in Saint-Emilion to apply “biodynamic” principles to the vineyards, to use open-top Burgundy style vats for vinification, to work the wine on the lees. He now consults at six chateaux that are classified among the elite Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Emilion. Of the over 800 chateaux in Saint-Emilion, only 61 properties have achieved this status. Recently, he began to consult at Francis Ford Coppola’s Rubicon estate.

Chateau La Bienfaisance has 40 acres under vine. Each parcel is individually farmed based on the specific climatic conditions and needs of the vines. The average age of the vines is 30 years. These older vines are less productive but yield more concentrated fruits, resulting in wines that are richer and more flavorful. About two-thirds of the vineyards are located on the famous limestone plateau. The Merlot and Cabernet Franc grown here are powerful and full-bodied. Their remaining vines are situated on hillsides with sandy clay soils that produce more finessed wines.

Only natural composts are added to the soils. Yields are kept well below the authorized limits. Leaves are removed at the end of June to control the levels of tannins in the grapes and again in August to expose the grapes to the sun for optimal maturity. Green harvests control the number of grape bunches on each vine to 6 for Cabernet Franc and between 8 and 10 for Merlot.

Harvest takes place at full maturity. The grapes are harvested by hand and then protected in small bins. Any damaged grape bunches are removed prior to de-stemming. The grapes then pass over a gently vibrating table to remove leaves, stems and dirt and any individual grapes that are damaged. There is a short cold maceration before fermentation in order to concentrate the flavors and while maintaining elegance and finesse.

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