Domaine Bouchie-Chatellier is located in the appellation of Pouilly-Fumé, which sits on the opposite side of the Loire River from Sancerre. Only an hour and half by car from Paris, both Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre are famous for crisp, dry white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, with Pouilly-Fumé having a reputation for producing slightly richer, more full-bodied wines than its neighbor. And despite the current rage for Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand, the flinty, fruity and herbaceous wines from Pouilly-Fumé continue to set themselves apart.

I first had the opportunity to taste Domaine Bouchie-Chatellier at a wine fair hosted by La Revue du Vin de France each May in Paris’ historic Palais Brongniart (the old stock exchange building). The Domaine was represented by Arnaud Bouchie-Chatellier, a third-generation vinegrower and current director of his family’s domaine. The potent citrus and stone fruit flavors, gunflint notes, minerality and crisp acidity of the Domaine’s wines were striking. I had scheduled a tasting trip to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in the coming month, and I immediately added Domaine Bouchie-Chatellier to my list of wineries to visit.

The Domaine is located in the village of Saint-Andelain on a hill rising 900 feet overlooking the Loire River. Saint-Andelain is one of the seven villages that comprise Pouilly-Fumé AOC (not to be confused with the similarly-named Pouily-Fuissé AOC, which is located in Burgundy and produces whites made from the Chardonnay grape.) The Domaine has some of the best-situated vineyards in Pouilly-Fumé. Covering just over 29 acres with southern and western exposures, the vineyards share the same hillside as Didier Dagueneau’s famed estate (which many regard as producing some of the best Sauvignon Blancs in the world).

More than other white grape varietals, Sauvignon Blanc is influenced by the climate and soil where it is grown. Although it is situated relatively north, Pouilly-Fumé’s cool climate is moderated by the Loire River. The combined effect gives the wines balance and structure. The Domaine’s vineyards have the perfect amount of flint and clay, both of which are thought to help ripening (the flint absorbs heat and radiates it into the clay). The flint is also believed to influence the flavors and aromas of the wine, including, most notably, the classic gunflint aromas for which Pouilly-Fumé is famous. Fumé, in fact, translates as “smoked” and producers in this region frequently call the Sauvignon Blanc grape Blanc Fumé.

The Domaine uses traditional vine management and cultivating methods. Yields are kept low, and the use of pesticides is minimal. On average, the vine stocks are 30 years old and some are as old as 65 years. The grapes are harvested by hand, and vinification takes place in stainless steel vats with very light filtrations. The choice of stainless steel allows for the purest expression of the grape, while minimal filtrations leave more solid matter in the wine as it matures, which making the wine more complex. The end results are mouthwatering wines that combine crisp acidity with expressive fruit and smoky notes. They are great on their own or with food. Traditional pairings include goat cheese, seafood and fish. These wines are also delicious with creamy pasta dishes and risotto, veal and sushi.

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